By Eric Shipley
After the Church of Saint George, we made our way along narrow roads surrounded by high walls to the Ben Ezra Synagogue, which, according to local tradition, is the site where the baby Moses was found.
It is the oldest synagogue in Egypt, but it began as a Christian church. In 882 AD, however, the Coptic Christians sold it to Abraham Ben Ezra for 20,000 dinars so they could pay their annual taxes.
The original synagogue collapsed at some point, and the building we saw is a faithful reconstruction built in 1892. Interestingly, when the reconstruction was done, the geniza (store room) was found to contain thousands of Hebrew manuscripts from the Middle Ages.
From the outside, it is an unremarkable rectangular stone building with high arched windows. We had to pass through an armed security checkpoint before going inside. Once we were inside, we found a beautifully crafted interior. There is a lower level for the men and an upper level for women, and in the center of the main floor is a raised marble platform where the Rabbi reads the Torah. Behind this, there is an alcove in the facing wall which is the ark of the Torah. It is also on a raised platform with steps leading up and a row of columns partitioning it from the rest of the interior. Everywhere we looked there was intricately carved stonework and woodwork, some of it with inlaid pearl. There is an impressive Star of David in the middle of the ceiling, and I also remember seeing at least one menorah. But, given my lack of familiarity with Jewish symbolism, I’m sure the significance of many details was lost on me—much to my regret.
Both Charlotte and I found this synagogue particularly beautiful and at the same time very peaceful and meditative. Unfortunately, visitors aren’t allowed to take pictures, so we’re left mostly with memories. In a way, though, I find those more valuable.
Next: The Hanging Church
